Spring Sips (a.k.a. a masterclass in terroir)
Celler de Capçanes is hidden away about 100 miles southwest
of Barcelona in the small D.O. Montsant. Originally known for their kosher
wine, nowadays their catalog also includes an incredibly diverse (and
delicious) selection of bottles at lower price points – and of arguably equal
quality – than their more famous cousins from down the road in Priorat.
Winemaker Jürgen Wagner of Celler de Capçanes |
Tasting through the 2016 vintage with winemaker Jürgen Wagner
was an absolute treat, with the standouts for me being the four “la nit de las
garnatxes” wines: the quintessential master class in terroir. Each of these unique
garnachas is grown in four distinct soils: sand, clay, limestone and slate, and
one can absolutely taste the difference.
The lightest of the lot, the one grown
in sand, possessed a simple elegance and an almost crisp quality, while the
clay version was bigger, bolder and wilder with excellent structure. Limestone
was the most refined of the quartet, with juicy black fruit and an almost chewy
minerality. Slate was the biggest of the group, showing plenty of bright fruit,
tar, ink and dark chocolate. They all possessed a brilliant freshness and
accessibility that I think makes these wines the perfect pairing for an early
spring BBQ. (That’s a thing, right?)
Find ‘em, share ‘em, drink ‘em. Like now. And tell me what you think. Cheers!
Find ‘em, share ‘em, drink ‘em. Like now. And tell me what you think. Cheers!
PS: The “la nit de las garnatxes” collection comes wrapped in a series of terroir cartoons. Brilliant!
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