Time Travels in Champagne
Deep below the famous chalky Champagne vineyards in northeast France is where the real history of the area can be found. And, while the villages are charming and picturesque, it's the natural caves and cellars below ground that are truly astounding.
Krug |
As a wine student, one reads about them, but now having visited them puts the astonishing terroir into a new perspective for me. They've housed secret medieval abbeys, kept soldiers safe in both World Wars, and, of course, they've allowed some pretty sacred bubbles to age in calm style.
Until we perfect time travel, we only have these profound bottles to take us back into our history.
At Krug, I met one of the few remaining Champagne riddlers, working quickly, quietly, in methodical and ancient rhythm. It was also here that I saw bottles that have been resting since 1880, regardless of all that has come to pass above ground.
Resting, Krug |
At Perrier Jouët, it was the commitment to creating art not only in the bottle, but also underground that was inspiring. The tranquil "Lost Time" installation remains my favorite – a quiet nod to the sad, the celebratory, the lonely and the timeless.
Lost Time, Perrier Jouët |
Or maybe that's the Champagne talking…
And speaking of, enjoying the remarkable Krug 2003, 2000 and Grande Cuvée in the same tasting was an unforgettable lesson in patient elegance, while the Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque 2006 was a sensual dance of vibrancy and light.
Many thanks to my gracious hosts at both of these incredible Champagne houses. You made this LAWineGal feel incredibly lucky. Cheers!
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